The only reason you would need to adjust the blade is if you damaged your adjustment blocks or you have changed the blade to something different, without matching it up, or one of your friends has adjusted it to “help you out”. Otherwise, the blades are already set from factory and honing them does not require re-adjustment as it doesn’t take enough off to change the cut.
Step 1: Loosen the two set screws slightly on either side. Just loosen them a little so they are still touching the top of the blade to keep it pushed down enough to get a true setting.
Step 2: Put the wrench on the back nut, on the back block, hold the screw and lightly loosen the nut just enough so you can turn the block. Do this to both sides.
Step 3: Go to the front and back the front lock nut off two or three turns as well.
Step 4: Take a look at the bolt going through the block. That bolt is going to move the blade backwards and forwards. Start by adjusting the bolt so it is flush with the block.
Step 5: Repeat for the other side.
Step 6: Once both bolt heads are flush with the front block (the block resting on the top of the blade), tighten up both set screws.
Step 7: For the first test, take left hand to rotate belt on left side of the machine. Rotate it 3-4 times and listen for metal-to-metal contact. If there is none, then you can move forward. If there is metal-to-metal contact, you need to adjust the bolt again and re-tighten the screws.
Step 8: Once you ensure there is no metal-to-metal contact, you can move onto the second test. For this, use your right hand to turn the blade and apply light pressure on the middle of the belt blade with your left hand. You want to hear a light scraping. Once the pressure is removed from the middle of the blade, it should go back to turning clean.
Step 9: If it doesn’t make contact, or requires too much pressure then go back and re-adjust the blade again.
Step 10: If the second test went well, you are set and you can tighten up the lock nuts and two set nuts.